Make the kima: Warm olive oil in a wide heavy pan over medium heat. Cook onion 8-10 minutes until soft. Add garlic, cook 1 minute. Raise heat to medium-high, add ground meat and cook, breaking up, until all liquid has evaporated and meat is beginning to color, about 12-15 minutes. Add wine and reduce almost completely. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, cinnamon, allspice, pepper, salt, and bay leaf. Simmer uncovered over low heat for 25-30 minutes until thick and fragrant. Remove bay leaf. Adjust salt. Cool slightly.

Cook the pasta: Boil a large pot of salted water. Cook #2 macaroni 2 minutes less than package directions. Drain well, toss with olive oil, cool 5 minutes. Add beaten eggs and grated cheese, toss to coat evenly.

Make the bechamel: Warm milk until just below simmering. In a separate wide saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add flour all at once and stir constantly for 2-3 minutes. Add warm milk one ladleful at a time, stirring after each addition, until smooth. Cook, stirring frequently, until thick enough to coat a spoon heavily. Season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg. Remove from heat. Temper the eggs: whisk beaten eggs, slowly add several spoonfuls of hot bechamel while whisking, then return to pan. Stir in half the grated cheese.

Preheat oven to 180C (350F) fan / 190C (375F) conventional. Butter a deep 33x23cm baking dish.

Assemble: Spread half the pasta in the base; press down. Spread all the kima over the pasta in an even layer; press down. Spread remaining pasta over the kima; press down. Pour bechamel evenly over the top. Scatter remaining cheese over the surface.

Bake 45-50 minutes until the bechamel is deeply golden, firm to the touch across the center, and pulling very slightly from the sides. The top should have distinct caramelization.

Remove from oven. Rest 20-25 minutes before cutting -- this is not optional. The layers must set completely or they will slide. Slice with a sharp knife, lifting portions with a wide spatula.