Take the filo out of the freezer and refrigerate it overnight. Rushing this step - counter-thawing - leads to condensation inside the package and sticky, torn sheets. When you are ready to work, unroll the filo onto a clean surface and lay a slightly damp kitchen towel over the top immediately.

Preheat your oven to 190C (375F). Grease a 33x23 cm (13x9-inch) baking pan generously with butter or olive oil.

Crumble the feta into a large bowl - leave some texture, you want pieces not a paste. Add the eggs, milk, and black pepper. If using ricotta or anthotiro, add it here. Mix until combined. Do not oversalt - feta is already quite salty; taste first, adjust after.

Lay one sheet of filo into the pan, letting it drape over the edges. Brush it thoroughly but lightly with melted butter. Repeat with 5 to 6 more sheets, buttering each one. You want roughly half your filo sheets on the bottom.

Pour the feta mixture evenly over the base layers and spread it gently with a spatula.

Layer the remaining filo sheets over the filling, buttering each one as before. Fold any overhanging edges back over the top to seal the sides. Brush the top generously.

Using a sharp knife, score the top layers of filo - cut through about halfway down, into diamonds or squares. Do not cut all the way through to the filling; you are just releasing steam and marking portions. Sprinkle a few drops of water over the top. Bake for 40-45 minutes, until deeply golden and crackling.

Let the tiropita rest for 10-15 minutes before cutting all the way through. This allows the filling to firm up and the filo to retain its shatter rather than collapsing from the heat.